Plakias, Rethymnon, almost the end of this voyage in Crete

April 17, 2014







I did find the sea… I went West, found a trail, many fences that have been breached, then ended up on top of an abandoned hotel facing the sea. I had taken the dirt track and it got me there. I was trying to get down from there but it was too high to jump… I found an abandoned room with these painting on the wall…



then stairs… down one level, but it was still too high. Two fat women and a guy were watching me. One of the women said angrily:

“What are you doing there!? You can’t come down.”

“I came the wrong way.”

They could actually help me down, but you know humans and this thing about “can’t” and rules and conventions… And you know my intense allergy to “Can’t” So I thought to myself: “Watch me.”

I climb on the side of the wall, but there were new plants that had just been put in the earth below and I didn’t want to destroy anything. I went back up the stairs… looked. Found. And I jumped as they watched and walked by them down to the water. In my mind I stuck my tongue at them: Pffffttrrrrr!!!


Now to the water. The set up: It’s about 4 PM, 22 degrees Celsius, the sand is golden, the water turquoise, you can see the bottom and it’s like crystal. I took my shoes, bracelets, jacket and bag off. I walked into the water. It’s cold. It’s like a caress. It’s been a long time since I went in any sort of natural body of water. It’s the first time in … 3,4 years that I am actually wearing shorts… I decided not to care if I was to blind a few people with my extreme whiteness… Oh it’s so good. The waves come and hit me, they are not big but the bottom is slippery and I quickly fall. Water in my mouth, oh it is so salty. I swim. It is amazing.



After a while I get out. I went in with shorts and top.. I don’t have a swim suit, so that does not dry that well, but it’s warm. I walk back to Plakias. There is a field of wheat. It’s so high… up to my waist and more, and there are those daisies… I feel the earth, the life. It’s as if the field could swallow me. This energy… the earth… without warning I cry. I miss the earth. The bees buzz all around. This is their world.

Back at the hostel. I play all night.

I wake up it’s not so sunny, but it’s nice. I found good espresso. Greeks love good coffee so it’s easy to find. I go enjoy a double come back and start practicing. I play for 2 hours or so. Then I go for a hike. I walk by this place on the sea, it’s called the rocks because the water is full of big rocks sticking out… I promise myself to come swim here later

I up, up, up. It is pretty amazing… the life, the smell of olive trees, the buzz of the bees again. They say the bees are dying everywhere… not here. There is no one around and I love it.









Back down to the hostel and I cook some food. I have Prince as my helper. I make a feast of pasta, tomatoes, kabak, onions and cheese. With the taste of olive oil and herbs here any food becomes glorious in an instant. I eat and it’s delicious. I clean my stuff up, put on my shorts and sport top and out again I go.



The night is approaching but it’s still light. I walk to the rocks place. In the water I go. There is no more sun. but the water is good. Oh…. I swim for a good while as I watch the clouds who are like giant ships in the sky, they are white with the gold from the sunset. They shift, approach… over the mountain, a man’s face appears, it’s mouth open. I head out towards the big open sea past the rocks… it’s always a bit frightening… I try to turn around but Poseidon doesn’t really want to let me back towards the beach… he holds on to me a bit… but slowly, slowly I return, I can see one day that I should heed his call and not return. Meet him, like in my song… but this time I would not faint because of his beauty. I would look at him, deeply in the eyes and I would reach out to touch him… (the song is Tourne from Aventuriere Accidentelle)

I went back to the hostel. I am soaked. A guy at the door of a restaurant (they stand there trying to lure tourists in) says to me: give me your card, I have a phone, I will call you… he had asked me to stop by after my swim when I first walked to the beach. He laughed, a woman who was doing the same job at the next restaurant laughed and I laughed too.

Back at the hostel… more playing. This course I took, I did learn. I was not so sure if it was going to “take’ or not… I was so stressed at times, trying to keep up… but I have learned a great deal. It is starting to show. I play until about 1:30 when one of the women from my dorm came with a sort of panic on her face and asked me to stop playing. I was shocked. I didn’t realize that they could hear me… I apologized… I hate this… always kicked out of places for playing… I stopped, not ready to. And that frustrated me more, so I watched another Alan Watts lecture on Youtube. Awesome. After that I quietly slipped into bed.

Last day. The women in the dorm woke me up at 8 something… crap. It’s raining out. I go back to sleep after asking them if they could be more quiet. I went for coffee… the people are so nice, I tell them it’s my last cafe here. We chat a bit. Back to the hostel I pack. Get ready for the 3 pm bus.

The bus shows up late. Then up the hill he goes the wrong way. The views are spectacular. We had a massive thunderstorm coming from the sea. It was so powerful, the whole land got soaked so it’s impossibly green now , all over, a green symphony.




We get into Rethymnon. I find the hostel following my nose. I laughed out loud… I walked… not too fast, looking around… on the Hostel website there was a painting of a guy sitting at the hostel and a minaret was sticking out… I sort of knew the approximate direction as I had looked on Google map but here too there are no street names to be found. So I proceeded.. saw a minaret… then turned… then turned again, after about 10 steps I saw the sign. I dropped my stuff off and headed out for a walk to see the fortress… there was a way to get in but they want money and I don’t have any to spare… so I skip it.


This place is mystical. Especially out of the cities… Out there one gets visions of creatures, Gods and sea spells to mind. When I was walking out in the hills I could almost feel myself wearing sandals and a tunic… really… If I came back, I would like to just go on foot. Anywhere… on the small roads, through the small villages. Good shoes, a GPS and not much more and then just walk. Feel the place. This was like a little tasting… but at least, I have been here. it”s pretty unbelievable… Tomorrow back to Istanbul. That is not real either yet… I don’t know what awaits me. We’ll see. In the mean time, I am so grateful for my time in Crete.














One Response to “Plakias, Rethymnon, almost the end of this voyage in Crete”

  1. connie pryor Says:

    Very nice glad your enjoying yourself. Your writing is so good its brings everything to life in my mind. It great!!!!!

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